Easterton Farmhouse
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WELCOME TO 'OPEN ROADS' 2002
DESPATCHES
19.   Death Valley
June 30th  

 

1. Preparation
2. Gathering
3. June 9th
4. June 10th-1th
5.  June 12th
6. June 13th
7.  June 14th
8.  June 15th
9.  June 16th
10. June 17th
11 June 18th
12. June19th
13. June 20th
14. June 21st
15. June 22nd
16. June 23rd-27th
17. June 28th
18. June 29th
19. June 30th
20. July 1st
21. July 2nd
22. July 3rd
23. July 4th
24. July 5th
25. July 6th
26. July 7th
27. July 8th
28. July 9th
29. July 10th
30. July 11th
1. Preparation
2. Gathering
3. June 9th
4. June 10th-1th
5.  June 12th
6. June 13th
7.  June 14th
8.  June 15th
9.  June 16th
10. June 17th
11 June 18th
12. June19th
13. June 20th
14. June 21st
15. June 22nd
16. June 23rd-27th
17. June 28th
18. June 29th
19. June 30th
20. July 1st
21. July 2nd
22. July 3rd
23. July 4th
24. July 5th
25. July 6th
26. July 7th
27. July 8th
28. July 9th
29. July 10th
30. July 11th

 

This is the day we are all dreading, nearly 400 miles through the hottest place in America - DEATH VALLEY. We set off early at 5.00a.m., hoping to reach Death Valley before the sun has climbed too high. Over Deadman's Ridge at  8,000 feet. Mountain peaks with snow patches dappling their summits. We pass Mammoth Lakes, Convict Lake then spot a sign for Owen's Lake. Must be named after my nephew - Owen Wapshaw in Australia. Dawn touching the mountains on our left - a flare of pink. Not a cloud in the sky. Short break for breakfast at Lone Pine, time is passing, it is already hot and we are still at 5,000 feet!
Take Rt 136 into Death Valley Nature Reserve, descend rapidly from 5,000 to sea level. Temperature soaring to118 F in the shade. Stop at Furnace Creek and have a quick shower.

The names are enough to strike dread into your heart, Furnace Creek, The Devil's Golf Course, Funeral Peak.

We take the loop off 190 running down Death Valley itself. Peter wants to have a photocall at the lowest point in the U.S.A. having already been at the highest driveable point. It is incredibly hot and nothing to see but salt and sand and a sign thoughtfully placed for any persons stupid enough to attempt driving Death Valley in the summer in open cars. The cars pose dutifully in front of it, 280 feet below sea level.

Welcome shower
Welcome shower

Hell on Earth

I don't know if the pictures convey the impression of the heat. I'm thinking that this would not be a good place to breakdown when the car suddenly gives a hiccough and splutters then picks up. My heart misses a beat and I gingerly ask Peter what's wrong. As usual he just mutters and I catch something about fuel evaporation or  is it vaporisation. We lurch onwards, the tension rising in the cockpit as the engine struggles for air, or would that be fuel? We are now slowly climbing out of the valley, have to get back up to  3,000 feet. About half a mile from the top she gives up altogether. "Has to be the condenser". Our in-house mechanic Philip and Peter pour over the car and pontificate. The Verdict - let her cool for a few minutes and try again. How does a car cool in when the ambient temp. is over 100F ?

Map of Death valley
Map
of Death Valley

Second lowest point on Earth
Somehow she does and fires up O.K. She struggles manfully to the top of the Pass with a severe dose of the hiccoughs then coasts down the other side and freewheels into a service station that just happens to be waiting for us in the middle of nowhere.  Philip dives under the bonnet and finds a wire has worked loose  from the condenser. All is not lost, just a few pounds of weight in sweat all round. We are soon back in business and on the road.Another 87 miles and we climb up to 5834 feet out of the Parumph valley. Our first view of Las Vegas. Our one and only view as we drive past as fast as possible and find a little gem of a place for 35 dollars a night at Boulder City. Overheated and overtired. The hottest day in the region of the year -  118F in Death Valley and 115 in las Vegas. Mileage for the day is 394.


Badwater

Cactus
Cactus

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Easterton Farm, Blackford, Perthshire, PH4 1RQ, tel 01764 682268
e-mail: Peter@easterton.com